‘Ten steps backwards’: Return of super thin models concern fashion experts

The glitz described above seem to go in reverse on size diversity, observers of the fashion industry note. Here Vogue Business presents new research based on collections for spring/summer ‘25 and there are some figures to worry about.

In 208 womenswear shows, reported, The Guardian that only 5.1% of the total 8,763 looks were with plus-size models and claims that 94.9% of the shows were during fall/winter 2017 seasonused models that were US size 0-4/UK size 4-8. In addition, only 0.8 per cent of models featured were plus-size models if they are above 18 years of age from the UK, and only 4.3 per cent of models were of mid-size if they were between 10 to 16 years from the UK. Milan’s shows were particularly homogenic and 98 % of them were straight size models, however some diversity numbers might be skewed by having muscly male models in the diversity casts of co-ed shows.

‘It feels like we’ve gone ten steps back,’ said The Australian media outlet that it quoted Milk Management model agency founder Anna Shillinglaw for saying this. 

Although emaciated models were previously the go-to when it came to fashion shows, there seems to have been positive changes this years. Exemplary NC include Jill Kortleve, who appeared for Chanel in 2000 in a size 28 and the April 2023 issue of British Vogue with plus-size models. The industry seems to be moving in this direction though.

Body diversity

“I now feel that some of the higher-end designers looked at curvier women more as a novelty or trend in fashion rather than as portraying real life,” Shillinglaw noted, noting that Britain’s average dress size is 16. 

Despite this season Chanel was more inclusive than others, more such brands do not Castillo for plus size models, newcomers Karoline Vitto and Ester Manas had to struggle to feature plus size models on the show. 

London based casting director Chloe Rosolek also noticed this trend adding: “It’s so strange just to wake up one morning and decide that a whole group of people don’t exist.” 

Has the trend returned?

The trend is parallel to that of slimming, something that has been somewhat popularized by Ozempic, a slimming pill. Consequently, Rosolek said: “There has been a reduction in size and not only for plus size models but straight-size models too.” And it’s not just young models; even models who were once categorized as plus-size, are now mid-size.” 

Many steps backwards

Larger fashion brands signed in their 2017 charter not to use size zero and under sixteen models, yet recent fashion shows employed very young, very thin models. Another model who wants to remain anonymous described her experience in Milan: ‘I looked at the other girls and I just felt like I shouldn’t be there.’ In comparison, I felt 'fat'. From height and age perspectives, I would fall under the underweight category but seeing these girls, I did feel big. 

Last former casting director James Scully only did say that, “We’ve gone back to the way things were 10 years ago.” These models are just serving a purpose. They’re not here to introduce any type of character or happiness or to promote anything. That’s why they are back to being a clothes hanger.